Shuffling around on Model Mayhem I came upon a post with advice for photographers about working with agencies. I’ve been asked this often and I think this article pretty much hit it on the head. I’ve included the points I think hit home most!

~ If you say you are a fashion photographer, you need to be working with fashion models. Models with the right looks, the right stats, the right attitude, and the right professionalism give you the credibility that you’re halfway to doing the right thing. Clients want agency girls, publications insist on it (ever see the clause – models MUST be agency represented- in submission requirements?) and you want to be draping that stylish garment on a 5’10 agency girl rather than Jane Doe off the street. Perception is a big part of the industry. To be taken seriously, you need to be working with the right people.
Note: Non-agency girls and boys can be as marvelous and beautiful and awesome as agency girls and boys, just as agency girls and boys can be not so great. Models are humans. However the fashion industry has rules – play by the rules then you can break them.

~ Agencies are there to source models with the looks and stats the commercial and fashion world wants. They’ve gone out and done it and have a database ready. It’s much easier to ask an agency for possible models with the attributes you’re looking for and get comp-cards, than to scroll along hundreds of listings online and message all of them, hoping someone replies. Agency models know how to do their work so you can do yours. You don’t need to worry if they’ll show up (they will), about replacements (call the booker), and they’re practicing all the time as they learn on the job and on tests. They show up prepared and ready to work because this is their job.

~ The first step when contacting agencies is to make a list – research online and ask other photographers or creatives or models about which agencies to work with. Reputable agencies have a good standing in the industry, they’re usually well known and represent a good selection of models. When make first contact, I favor calling – you can ask directly for the booker in charge of new faces therefore having a point of contact. They get to know that you’re a real life breathing person so they’ll remember you when you email. If they’re open to testing they’ll usually ask to see your work, in the form of a website or they may ask that you come in with your book. If and when you email – re-introduce yourself, reiterate what you’re looking for, for example testing with new faces or paid testing, and attach your website or a pdf file of a selection of your work and your contact details. If and when you show up – dress smart casual and be presentable. Have your book and cards on you.

~ First impressions matter. The way you present yourself goes a long way to securing a good relationship with a booker, making it easier to book models. Double check all grammar and spelling, make sure your contact details are correct. If you’re nervous about speaking or meeting a booker, write up what you’re going to say and practice saying it. If you’re unsure about anything, don’t be afraid of asking questions. It is much better to have all the information on the table.

~ Smile and make eye contact.

~ Always remember to stay positive. Bookers might say no, but keep at it – contact them and keep showing your new work. Remember that it is a symbiotic relationship – photographers need models and you as a photographer have the skills bookers need. If at first you don’t succeed, try and try again, and again, and again.

~ Study the sort of images the agency has on their boards and make sure you’re shooting similar stuff of equal (or higher) caliber. It’s alright if you’re a student or new, as long as you can show you have potential to shoot good images which highlight the best features of the models – which is what bookers are looking for. Peacock feathers and sparkly glitter eyes are less likely to impress than good solid clean images. Don’t be afraid to ask for critiques, especially from your peers. Be discerning and only put out your best work.

~ Have a website ready (your own) as opposed to Facebook, flickr, or MM. It’s easy and cheap to set up your own website – sites like WordPress, livebooks, qufoto and many more offer readymade templates to showcase your work, or you can make your own.

~ Have your portfolio or book ready – 11×14 is usual, but you can choose to be more unique in your presentation. No Plastic Sleeves is a nice site to see how other photographers are handling their marketing materials. An iPad might also be an option for showing your work. There’s no beating that feeling when you hand your book over and see eyebrows go up and mouths curve into smiles as they flip through your work.

~ Be prompt on your promises and always try to be better. Bookers don’t like to chase photographers for photos and they like it even less if you disappear. People talk and you really don’t want to be that person no one wants to work with.

~ Be a good photographer and be a good professional.

~ Can or should you get a model release? Agencies rarely allow their models to sign releases, especially for tests. Ask the booker if you need a release.

~ Can you use test photos commercially? Not a great idea. You need to negotiate for commercial use.

~ What can you use test photos for? Read up on the laws regulating your country such as privacy and photo releases. Common use includes portfolio updates and magazine submissions.

~ What do you give agencies? You can give a proof sheet of photos for the booker to choose a selection to retouch, or give a selection of already retouched images, as long as they’re usable images. How many images are up to you – 1 to 3 per look would do well.

Above all, have fun!

Photo: NayMarie | Model: Swann Cardot
The original article was written by S de Varax.